Swimming With Sea Turtles in Kona, Big Island of Hawaii 在大島與海龜同游

三年前才遊大島（驚艷夏威夷大島），因為熟門熟路，從西岸直飛很方便。這次決定只去幾個地方，希望好好放鬆度假。在Kailua-Kona 留了兩天，都在浮潛。我們去的兩處都在路邊，停了車就可以下水，完全免費。買了兩年的水底相機這回真的努力使用。不只見到海龜，還在水中看牠們覓食，跟了好一陣子。其他熱帶魚更不在話下。（倒是珊瑚礁沒啥看頭。）我這旱鴨照例穿救生衣浮潛，保證要沉也沉不下，可以安心地享受神奇的水中世界。以下是英文詳情。

Revisit same place in three years is something unthinkable in our travel record, but we wanted to go back to the Big Island because we knew the place from last visit, this time just wanted to do few things and relax, no exploration needed. With direct flight from Oakland to Kailua-Kona, flying time to the west is much easier than to the east. The big plus is easy access to the free snorkeling sites we intended, no need to involve boat or tour operators.


We stayed two days in Kona after visiting Hilo, doing mostly snorkeling. Two main sites are: Kahalu'u Beach Park and Pu'uhonua o Honaunau (National Historical Park). The names are strange and confusing, so we enter to the GPS that we brought along and all relied on it. Even we updated the GPS earlier this year, there were some places on Big Island that's not updated, so grab a local map when available.

Kahalu'u Beach Park is located at the south part of the coast road Ali'i Drive. There are plenty of parking in the park, restrooms, picnic tables, snorkel gear rental, fresh water for the wash, and some coarse sand beach area. People come to this park mainly for snorkeling (and sunbath). There is a line of breakwater at the short distance, and have lifeguard on duty, so feel like it's a safe place for the beginners. Depends on the tide, you may walk through some rough lava rock area to reach the water deep enough for snorkeling, or simply pick a good place and start off in the high tide. Plenty of fish here, more coral further away from the launch area. Beware, some people wear gloves and socks for the uneven coral and lava surface. You can get them from the local Walmart.  A reminder: Do not touch or step on the coral.

Kahalu'u Beach Park from the water. A relatively small park, with loads of fun.

I don't swim, so the gear is very important to me to be safe so I can enjoy the water. We tried 3 different rental places last time, and I found the gear from "Kahalu'u Bay Surf & Sea" fitted me the best. So this time we went straight there and rented for 2 days.The place is right across from the Beach Park. Price has increased a lot since last visit. We got a better deal as returned customers, two sets of snorkeling gear with fins for 2 days cost about $42, tax included. Also included is a PFD (a life jacket) for the non-swimmer of myself, as always part of my gear, for $5.

The place I rented my gear, right across from the Beach Park

We first tried out the underwater camera, a Olympus Tough II. It's hard to take photos because we were all floating at the top. Fish located too deep from the top would not have good showing. Gradually learned to find better lighting and higher coral area so the fish can be more at the eye level. Still a lot of miss fires and blurry images. For those people who can dive a bit, they should be getting much better shots.

Convict Tang (囚犯魚）and Picasso Trigger Fish? 

Convict Tang 囚犯魚 

Moorish Idol

Next morning, already people in the water when we got there before 9am. The temperature was low 80s, I had a rush guard over swimwear, felt just right and not cold. It was high tide, easily walk into water. Right at the launch area, we saw Green Sea Turtle head popped out to breath, and decided, against our plan, to give it a go. All our gears, towels, clothes are in the car, ready to go any time. That's the whole point of coming to Kona, isn't it? Just when we thought we've seen most of the fish yesterday after two snorkels, we got something new today. Park rule we have to stay 10 ft from the turtles, but with the wave moving, sometimes we tried hard not to touch them, or had to move away from them. Turtles didn't care, they were busy finding food. We saw 4 this time. What a treat. We both leave the water with big smile.

Green Sea Turtle actually does not appear to be green. They were badly (and sadly) named because of the green fat in their body, obviously by people who killed them. Those close to shore are the younger ones. Once mature, they will swim to the ocean. It is a blessing for us to see them so easily here.

Green Sea Turtle pop out to breath

Parrotfish?

Boxfish

Next up is Pu'uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park, about 18 miles from Kahalu'u Beach Park. No, you can't snorkel in the National Park, it's right outside of the park on the coast. Find the Park, you find this snorkeling place. This place has no facilities at all for restroom and fresh water. No life guard either. Parking along the street outside of National Park, or pay $5 of highway rubbery from the resident next to it. This place is even easier up and down. Once walk over short distance of lava rock, the launch area is like a seat, one step from there is a big drop into the water and the fun started. There are more coral in this area, and again plenty of fish. Unfortunately the coral in both places showed the signs of warming water and more algae damage and turned bleached on the top. 

From the National Historical Park look toward the snorkeling place outside of the park

Yellow Tangs

I think this bunch were sleeping

Our third location failed to materialize this time. Kealakekua Bay near Captain Cook's Mounment. The kayak rental was not there anymore, and had to rent from other location. According to the renter, the dolphins were not there that morning. Usually that meant they would not come for the day. We thought it would not worth it without the dolphins around, so we gave up the kayaking altogether. Lesson learned, do the homework, even we've been there before. 

A plug of video of dolphin encounter from our last trip here:

We stayed in Royal Kona Resort this time, about 4-5 miles north of the Beach Park. Last day before checking out of hotel, we went for the last snorkel. Still we saw some fish for the first time, and one more Green Sea Turtle. The video shows how peaceful it is.  And the Yellow Tangs even form a school to say good-bye!

Just a 30 minutes snorkel, we were happy we did it. Shower before checking out and heading to the airport. Oh, refill gas at Costco on the way to airport! 

We hope this trip to be a relaxed and fun trip. It turned out to be a real good one again.

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Some more minor details:
The travel book we used is Hawaii The Big Island Revealed - The Ultimate Guidebook. Good information. eBook is good for the update and check out their website for more reviews.

We checked Yelp for the local restaurants and eatery. (And set the GPS.) The only time we were not happy with the meal was the one time we did not check Yelp. Note that many restaurants open for limited time.

There is only one Costco in Big Island, and that's very close to the Kona International Airport. Lots of water activities and Hawaii related merchandises there that you don't get from the mainland Costco. Also plenty of ready to eat food for picnic anywhere on the island. Just have to buy (or bring along) a insulated bag to keep the food under the Hawaii heat for food safety.

Plenty of hotels, condos, apartments along the Ali'i Drive along the coast. Check out the Ultimate Guidebook reviews for unbiased opinion. I will next time.