Monday, November 12, 2012

Northern Vietnam Minorities 越北少數民族




2005. After visiting Ho Chi Ming City and Hanoi in Vietnam, I continue on to the Chinese border area of Sapa in northern Vietnam, wish to see the ethnic minorities. The plan is to join a small tour group, take night train in and out of Sapa, leave me two days to explore with one night stay in town.

The Village 山村
With the free time after arrival, I hired a local guide to take me to one of the local markets. First, he takes me for a short walk of village life in the hills.  For all I can see, everything comes from earth, not factories.  Even the fabrics is made locally, from hemp and vegetable dye.  Pigs, chickens, and ducks running freely. My guide leads me into a house, only a boy is around, preparing cassava, a rooted vegetable. The house has only one room, with very limited and primitive handmade furniture. A huge wok on the stove is the most noticeable item, and that is not even for human consumption, but for cooking cassava for the pigs. Young children playing outside, no adult to be seen, likely all working in the field.
To see how people lives is one of the purposes of travel, especially to see people with different lifestyle from us. But seeing this family barely has anything in the house make me wonder, who am I to see their poor condition? And how would that enhance my experience?  I find my curiosity toward seeing people's living quarter diminish after this.

遊過了胡志明市和河內,我繼續到越北和中國邊境的 Sapa 去看少數民族。因為偏遠,從河內只有夜車來回。我參加了一個小旅遊團,要去山區徒步。

到了之後還有時間,我就雇了一名地陪,帶我去看有名的市集。地陪帶我經過田間一些小村,感覺上真是徹底的田園生活。家畜四處亂走,放眼看去,所有的東西都是地上長出來的。連穿的麻衣都是自染的。陶淵明說的避禍桃花源,大概類似這種情形吧,完全自給自足,和外界交通中斷了也沒關係的。看到路邊一個人家,地陪就走了進去,木屋裡的家具都很簡單而粗陋,最顯眼的是一只大鑊,居然是用來煮豬食的。一個小男孩在抽木薯,就是豬的晚餐。幾個更小的小孩在屋外玩,大人們大概在田裡工作,一個也沒見。

Sunday, November 4, 2012

我的馬路英雄

在去大理的車上

鄰座是一個老法,我們一路上聊了起來。他計劃在中國旅行三個月,兩周前從廣州開始,坐火車到昆明,乘公交去了連我都嫌難去的石林,(偷懶,遊客小販太多,令我興趣缺缺)現在要去大理。他拿出法文的旅遊指南來給我看,前兩頁的中國全圖,打星的是作者建議去的地方,他希望都能去看看。我想,書是法文的,他說的是英文,路上看到的都是中文,這語文轉換也夠煩雜的了,此人的志向真是遠大。他說著說著,一面翻書,突然指一個地方給我看,說:這個名字常常出現。我看了有一點想笑,Renminlu 是人民路,跟他解釋中國叫中華人民共和國,Renmin 就是其中的 People。 仔細想想,我看英文也不過看個名字的長相,有看沒懂,什麼時候問了意思了。New Orleans, New Jersey 都是當名字唸而已,那裡知道 Orleans 和 Jersey 原來在法國,在英國,更不知道美國地名、街名其命名背後的歷史意義。那。。。我迷失了多少東西?