2005. After visiting Ho Chi Ming City and Hanoi in Vietnam, I continue on to the Chinese border area of Sapa in northern Vietnam, wish to see the ethnic minorities. The plan is to join a small tour group, take night train in and out of Sapa, leave me two days to explore with one night stay in town.
The Village 山村
With the free time after arrival, I hired a local guide to take me to one of the local markets. First, he takes me for a short walk of village life in the hills. For all I can see, everything comes from earth, not factories. Even the fabrics is made locally, from hemp and vegetable dye. Pigs, chickens, and ducks running freely. My guide leads me into a house, only a boy is around, preparing cassava, a rooted vegetable. The house has only one room, with very limited and primitive handmade furniture. A huge wok on the stove is the most noticeable item, and that is not even for human consumption, but for cooking cassava for the pigs. Young children playing outside, no adult to be seen, likely all working in the field.
To see how people lives is one of the purposes of travel, especially to see people with different lifestyle from us. But seeing this family barely has anything in the house make me wonder, who am I to see their poor condition? And how would that enhance my experience? I find my curiosity toward seeing people's living quarter diminish after this.
遊過了胡志明市和河內，我繼續到越北和中國邊境的 Sapa 去看少數民族。因為偏遠，從河內只有夜車來回。我參加了一個小旅遊團，要去山區徒步。
到了之後還有時間，我就雇了一名地陪，帶我去看有名的市集。地陪帶我經過田間一些小村，感覺上真是徹底的田園生活。家畜四處亂走，放眼看去，所有的東西都是地上長出來的。連穿的麻衣都是自染的。陶淵明說的避禍桃花源，大概類似這種情形吧，完全自給自足，和外界交通中斷了也沒關係的。看到路邊一個人家，地陪就走了進去，木屋裡的家具都很簡單而粗陋，最顯眼的是一只大鑊，居然是用來煮豬食的。一個小男孩在抽木薯，就是豬的晚餐。幾個更小的小孩在屋外玩，大人們大概在田裡工作，一個也沒見。
旅行的目的之一，是看在不同地方的人是怎麼樣生活的。看到這貧窮人家的屋子之後，想不懂這對我有什麼太大意義，又增長了多少見聞嗎。這以後對看別人的家就越來越不感興趣了。
The Market 市集
趕市集是每個村子的大事，大家都把最好的衣服首飾穿戴上，走很遠的路去趕集。背上還背了個大竹簍裝要賣的東西。照片上看到的是黑苗人和花苗人。花苗的服飾顏色較多，很漂亮。黑苗就大多是黑色為主，比較少變化。
The walk 徒步山區
The reason for coming to Sapa is to have this country walk. Through hills, rice paddies, river, and muddy roads, passing villages, seeing magnificent rice terrace at a distance. A quite pleasant walk for me to take in and feel the life in this remote boarder area.
來此主要目的就是徒步走山間小路，之前有一點擔心走不動，但是其實沒那麼難走，而且一路風景很美，農村，田間小路，梯田，山徑，走來很舒爽。走完了之後，覺得來此是明智的決定。
People 本地人
I would think this peaceful village life is perfect, they have everything they need, as their ancestors had lived for hundreds of years without the help or interruption from outside world. That is, until they want a pair of cheap Chinese made plastic slip-on, and found they don't have money for it. The best way to make money is to sell handicrafts to tourists. All around town, I see Hmong girls hang around tourists, try to learn some English for curiosity or as a tool to make money. They have to walk at least two hours from their villages to get into town. For some, that's too much in certain days, so they simply stay in town, sleep anywhere they think fit. If they have time, they are on the handicraft.
When we have lunch stop during the walk, several older local ladies stand by and watch us eat. Most of us have left overs, not really like the fast food style sandwich provided by the tour company. When I pack the food away, the locals are ready to take them. To them, the food is exotic. They even want the plastic bag that come with the food. Plastic bag, that must be quite useful in their life. But that's also a non-biodegradable thing that's new to the village. Before this, they would have everything goes back to nature. And how would they handle this in large number for a area has no garbage management?
This is the time I really feel the impact of tourism. We come to see their world, in a way we also change their world. This trip has somehow changed my attitude toward minorities. Few years later, I would not even wanted to see the commercialized Long Neck Tribe while visiting Northern Thailand.
這裡的村民在山裡生活了好幾代，雖然貧窮，總是足以維生。但是一旦有人連中國製造的便宜塑膠拖鞋都買不起的時候，問題就來了。我看到很多婦女在鎮上向觀光客推銷手工藝品，就是離開傳統生活，走向城市的第一步。從村子走到我住的鎮上，至少需要兩小時，有些女孩懶得走來走去，乾脆晚上就賴在鎮上不回家了，隨便找個地方睡一覺就罷了。有時間的時候，就低頭做手藝，大概那是唯一賺錢的方法吧。
在山裡徒步吃午飯時，旁邊就站了幾個婦女村民在等。旅遊公司給的三明治不怎麼好吃，我們幾個吃了一些，剩下的包起來準備找地方丟，那些村民就上前來拿去了，連塑膠袋都很寶貴地收起來。食物不同，也許覺得好奇或是想吃吧。塑膠袋倒是很好用，而且是地上長不出來的。但是用了之後是沒法回歸土地的。量多了之後，要怎嗎處理呢？2005年時看來才剛開始有外來物品不久，我看過其他落後地區成堆的塑膠用品完全沒法處理，堆在路邊，不會腐化。然後呢？
這都是我們這些觀光客帶來的影響嗎？我們來看他們的生活，同時也改變了他們的生活。去了七年了，Sapa 現在不知道變成了什麼樣子。這次旅行之後，我對看少數民族的想法有些變了，幾年之後去泰北，連（樣板）長頸族也不想看了。
The curiousness is mutual 互相好奇
I am sitting in a restaurant where tourists hang out, facing outside to do people watching. This Hmong lady comes up trying to sell her craft. So far I managed to avoid all the bombardment by the Hmong sales ladies in Sapa, ready to leave on the night train back to Hanoi. I also managed to have no decent shot of the Hmong costume and likely to go home empty handed. It happens this lady can speak English, and is fully dressed in dashing Red Dao 瑤族 style. I check out her craft, a small wall hanging in red and black, not exactly exquisite handcraft, just common, and not expensive. So I think, why not, and ask if she would let me take two pictures of her if I bought one wall hanging from her. She says yes. So we chat a bit, try to find out more about each other. She is the mother of, get this, TEN children, owns a motorcycle, so instead of walking two hours from her village, she can come to town easily to sell her stuff. Looks like she's doing just fine with her business. I take my shots. When everything is set and done, she suddenly does something really surprise me. She comes forward, bends down, her hand, fingers and palm, touches and wraps my calf, quietly utters: "So big.". I really don't know how to respond to this funny action, or should I be embarrassed that my calves are big?
Later I told my teammate, a French lady working in New Zealand, what the Hmong lady did to me, she said the same thing happened to her too. Together, two big-calf women had a good laugh about it. We came to Sapa to see the Minority people, and got checked out by them.
我坐在餐館最外面，向著街上，一面喝飲料一面看人，來 Sapa 的行程都完成了，等著坐夜車回去河內。在這城裡我什麼東西都沒買，連一張好的本地人照片也沒拍到。這時來了個紅瑤族女士，兜售小手工藝品。我看看她的東西普通，手藝不是很細，但是便宜嘛，而且她會說英文。想了一下，問她說，我買她一件小東西，她要讓我照兩張照片。她點頭說好。她穿的真美，大紅頭飾好生艷麗誇張。照了相，我們就聊了一下。她是十個孩子的媽，自己有小摩托車，所以進出村子賣東西很方便，不用花長時間走路。居然富有到可以買機車，可以想見她是一個很好的生意人。(紅瑤族的傳統服飾色彩搶眼，反應在手工藝品上，比黑苗族要吃香多了。也聽說他們比較會賺錢，理財。）銀貨兩訖，話也說完了，她突然彎下腰，用手摸了一下我的小腿，悄悄的說，好大唷。我一時反應不過來，哭笑不得。怎麼會有人做這種事！
隊友集合後，我和一個路上常聊天的法國女生說起這件事，她居然說也碰到同樣的事。我們兩個小腿很大的女生就一起大笑。我們對這裡的原住民很好奇，他們看我們也是同樣好奇。
遊過了胡志明市和河內，我繼續到越北和中國邊境的 Sapa 去看少數民族。因為偏遠，從河內只有夜車來回。我參加了一個小旅遊團，要去山區徒步。
到了之後還有時間，我就雇了一名地陪，帶我去看有名的市集。地陪帶我經過田間一些小村，感覺上真是徹底的田園生活。家畜四處亂走，放眼看去，所有的東西都是地上長出來的。連穿的麻衣都是自染的。陶淵明說的避禍桃花源，大概類似這種情形吧，完全自給自足，和外界交通中斷了也沒關係的。看到路邊一個人家，地陪就走了進去，木屋裡的家具都很簡單而粗陋，最顯眼的是一只大鑊，居然是用來煮豬食的。一個小男孩在抽木薯，就是豬的晚餐。幾個更小的小孩在屋外玩，大人們大概在田裡工作，一個也沒見。
旅行的目的之一，是看在不同地方的人是怎麼樣生活的。看到這貧窮人家的屋子之後，想不懂這對我有什麼太大意義，又增長了多少見聞嗎。這以後對看別人的家就越來越不感興趣了。
The Market 市集
Market day is big thing in the area, people really dress up for the occasion, even through they have to walk long distance to the market with big back basket. I see two different tribes of Hmong here, the Black Hmong and the Flower Hmong, each with distinctive color and pattern of their costume.
趕市集是每個村子的大事，大家都把最好的衣服首飾穿戴上，走很遠的路去趕集。背上還背了個大竹簍裝要賣的東西。照片上看到的是黑苗人和花苗人。花苗的服飾顏色較多，很漂亮。黑苗就大多是黑色為主，比較少變化。
 |
| Black Hmong |
 |
| Flower Hmong |
The walk 徒步山區
The reason for coming to Sapa is to have this country walk. Through hills, rice paddies, river, and muddy roads, passing villages, seeing magnificent rice terrace at a distance. A quite pleasant walk for me to take in and feel the life in this remote boarder area.
來此主要目的就是徒步走山間小路，之前有一點擔心走不動，但是其實沒那麼難走，而且一路風景很美，農村，田間小路，梯田，山徑，走來很舒爽。走完了之後，覺得來此是明智的決定。
People 本地人
I would think this peaceful village life is perfect, they have everything they need, as their ancestors had lived for hundreds of years without the help or interruption from outside world. That is, until they want a pair of cheap Chinese made plastic slip-on, and found they don't have money for it. The best way to make money is to sell handicrafts to tourists. All around town, I see Hmong girls hang around tourists, try to learn some English for curiosity or as a tool to make money. They have to walk at least two hours from their villages to get into town. For some, that's too much in certain days, so they simply stay in town, sleep anywhere they think fit. If they have time, they are on the handicraft.
When we have lunch stop during the walk, several older local ladies stand by and watch us eat. Most of us have left overs, not really like the fast food style sandwich provided by the tour company. When I pack the food away, the locals are ready to take them. To them, the food is exotic. They even want the plastic bag that come with the food. Plastic bag, that must be quite useful in their life. But that's also a non-biodegradable thing that's new to the village. Before this, they would have everything goes back to nature. And how would they handle this in large number for a area has no garbage management?
This is the time I really feel the impact of tourism. We come to see their world, in a way we also change their world. This trip has somehow changed my attitude toward minorities. Few years later, I would not even wanted to see the commercialized Long Neck Tribe while visiting Northern Thailand.
這裡的村民在山裡生活了好幾代，雖然貧窮，總是足以維生。但是一旦有人連中國製造的便宜塑膠拖鞋都買不起的時候，問題就來了。我看到很多婦女在鎮上向觀光客推銷手工藝品，就是離開傳統生活，走向城市的第一步。從村子走到我住的鎮上，至少需要兩小時，有些女孩懶得走來走去，乾脆晚上就賴在鎮上不回家了，隨便找個地方睡一覺就罷了。有時間的時候，就低頭做手藝，大概那是唯一賺錢的方法吧。
在山裡徒步吃午飯時，旁邊就站了幾個婦女村民在等。旅遊公司給的三明治不怎麼好吃，我們幾個吃了一些，剩下的包起來準備找地方丟，那些村民就上前來拿去了，連塑膠袋都很寶貴地收起來。食物不同，也許覺得好奇或是想吃吧。塑膠袋倒是很好用，而且是地上長不出來的。但是用了之後是沒法回歸土地的。量多了之後，要怎嗎處理呢？2005年時看來才剛開始有外來物品不久，我看過其他落後地區成堆的塑膠用品完全沒法處理，堆在路邊，不會腐化。然後呢？
這都是我們這些觀光客帶來的影響嗎？我們來看他們的生活，同時也改變了他們的生活。去了七年了，Sapa 現在不知道變成了什麼樣子。這次旅行之後，我對看少數民族的想法有些變了，幾年之後去泰北，連（樣板）長頸族也不想看了。
 |
| The town 鎮上的新建築 |
 |
| 不停工作的女孩 |
 |
| This is what happen if they find you with slight interest in their merchandise. 群起圍攻觀光客 |
I am sitting in a restaurant where tourists hang out, facing outside to do people watching. This Hmong lady comes up trying to sell her craft. So far I managed to avoid all the bombardment by the Hmong sales ladies in Sapa, ready to leave on the night train back to Hanoi. I also managed to have no decent shot of the Hmong costume and likely to go home empty handed. It happens this lady can speak English, and is fully dressed in dashing Red Dao 瑤族 style. I check out her craft, a small wall hanging in red and black, not exactly exquisite handcraft, just common, and not expensive. So I think, why not, and ask if she would let me take two pictures of her if I bought one wall hanging from her. She says yes. So we chat a bit, try to find out more about each other. She is the mother of, get this, TEN children, owns a motorcycle, so instead of walking two hours from her village, she can come to town easily to sell her stuff. Looks like she's doing just fine with her business. I take my shots. When everything is set and done, she suddenly does something really surprise me. She comes forward, bends down, her hand, fingers and palm, touches and wraps my calf, quietly utters: "So big.". I really don't know how to respond to this funny action, or should I be embarrassed that my calves are big?
Later I told my teammate, a French lady working in New Zealand, what the Hmong lady did to me, she said the same thing happened to her too. Together, two big-calf women had a good laugh about it. We came to Sapa to see the Minority people, and got checked out by them.
我坐在餐館最外面，向著街上，一面喝飲料一面看人，來 Sapa 的行程都完成了，等著坐夜車回去河內。在這城裡我什麼東西都沒買，連一張好的本地人照片也沒拍到。這時來了個紅瑤族女士，兜售小手工藝品。我看看她的東西普通，手藝不是很細，但是便宜嘛，而且她會說英文。想了一下，問她說，我買她一件小東西，她要讓我照兩張照片。她點頭說好。她穿的真美，大紅頭飾好生艷麗誇張。照了相，我們就聊了一下。她是十個孩子的媽，自己有小摩托車，所以進出村子賣東西很方便，不用花長時間走路。居然富有到可以買機車，可以想見她是一個很好的生意人。(紅瑤族的傳統服飾色彩搶眼，反應在手工藝品上，比黑苗族要吃香多了。也聽說他們比較會賺錢，理財。）銀貨兩訖，話也說完了，她突然彎下腰，用手摸了一下我的小腿，悄悄的說，好大唷。我一時反應不過來，哭笑不得。怎麼會有人做這種事！
隊友集合後，我和一個路上常聊天的法國女生說起這件事，她居然說也碰到同樣的事。我們兩個小腿很大的女生就一起大笑。我們對這裡的原住民很好奇，他們看我們也是同樣好奇。
No comments:
Post a Comment