I have wanted to go to Yellowstone in winter for years, but always worried about the coldness, the winter storm and blizzard that would stopped me from even reaching the park. Finally I realized worrying about blizzard may (or may not) happen months away lead me to no where, and I am not getting younger. If not now, when? After finding this snowmobile tour, I paid the money, bought plane tickets, and rented a SUV within two short days, made it the deal I can't back out. If by any chance I couldn't make it to the tour, I just have to give another try. That's the way it is.
想在冬天去黃石公園很多年了，但是怕冷，又擔心碰到大風雪，我這住在加州的人不知道怎麼處理，可能連從機場到公園都有問題。就這樣一年過一年。去年底終於領悟，擔心幾個月以外的天氣實在無濟於事，就只是乾等年華老去罷了。此時不去，難道要等到走不動了才後悔嗎？找到了一個很好的雪車遊園計劃，短短兩天裡就付了錢，買好機票，租了車，不給自己反悔的馀地。如果天氣不好，沒能成行，就再試一次，天也不會塌下來。
The plan was simple: (trail of the wolf)
Day 1: arrive Mammoth Hot Spring Hotel in Yellowstone National Park.
Day 2: early morning snowcoach to Lamar Valley searching for wildlife. Early afternoon snowmobile to Old Faithful Snow Lodge, 50 miles.
Day 3: snowmobile from Old Faithful back to Mammoth Hot Spring via the east loop, 100 miles.
Day 4: departure.
Provided that once the snowmobile trip departed the location, it would be "a point of no return". That is, we are required to finish the day trip. We are also required to keep the snowmobile speed at 30-35mph in order to make all the scenic and wildlife stops and arrive in the finished hotel in time.
I usually watched out the weather before each trip by adding the location to my weather app. One week before leaving, seeing the temperature forecast of our first snowmobile day, my heart sank. The temperature of our arriving city, Bozeman, Montana, dropped from 30/10F to next day's 12/0. Hubby and I scramble to find the forecast for Old Faithful and Mammoth, where we will be staying: high 8, low -17!! That's troublesome, we already prepared clothing for our body, feet, and head. I ran out to buy more for neck and face the day before departure.
Two and half hours drive from Bozeman was slow and difficult. Sudden drop of temperature turned earlier rain into icy road. We barely made it to our tour meeting, when our snowmobile tour guide K gave an outline of what to wear and what to expect of the tour starting tomorrow. Surprised to learn that we were among the few that never drove a snowmobile. That's not news to us any more. Each and every time we join "adventure tour", like kayaking or rafting tour, we always found ourselves to be the "rookies", or bottom performers. After the meeting, we confessed to K about our zip experience, she wasn't surprise since this is supposed to be a entry level snowmobile trip anyway, and promised to position us right behind her in the snowmobile lineup, so she can watch and help us closely.
Next morning, we boarded snowcoach to the famous Lamar Valley to see wildlife. With the low temperature, we were told animals would likely be hunker down with less activity instead of coming out to find food. The only wildlife we would guarantee to see was bison. And so we did, many groups of bison, searching for grass underneath snow. Luckily, traveling together was a hunter from Wisconsin, who got the sharp eyes of a spotter, we saw elks, mule deers and several coyotes along the way, only missed the famous re-introduced Yellowstone Gray Wolf (which we should not expect more than seeing them from a spotting scope and not be able to take a full framed photo.)
It was bitter cold, and I was reluctant to get out of the warm bus to take pictures. I wonder what to do in the afternoon when we take the snowmobile, not only would we lose the shelter of the coach, but we also had to brave the windchill riding.
旅行計劃很簡單 ( 英文網頁在此)
第一天：到達公園北邊的Mammoth溫泉旅館集合
第二天：早上乘小雪巴去看野生動物，下午從Mammoth溫泉旅館騎雪車往南去老忠實噴泉，50英哩
第三天：從老忠實噴泉開回Mammoth溫泉，100英哩
第四天：回家
看來很簡單，小鬼藏在細節裡。一旦離開旅館，我們就必須完成當天的行程，不能中途放棄。而且必須保持每小時30 到35 英哩的行駛速度，才可能完成計劃中的沿途停站，看風景，動物。
看天氣是我旅行的功課。兩星期前我就開始每天看。出發前一周，氣溫驟降到-10C 和-20C。老忠實更冷到 -27C。 就算知道了也不能做什麼，該備的衣服裝備都齊了，但是我還是又買了保護脖子和臉的裝備，嚴陣以待。從機場到旅館還算順利，路面結冰，車開的慢。行前會議中發現我們又是菜鳥，全隊十八人裡，大都有雪車經驗。我們每次去這類活動都當菜鳥，反正能活著回來，沒受傷就好了。菜鳥就菜鳥吧。不過我們還是老實的跟導遊說明，她答應在車隊裡把我們排在她雪車的後面，就近照顧。
第二天早上真的很冷。上車之前導遊先說明，這麼冷的天裡，動物和人一樣，都懶的出來覓食，所以她只能保證我們看到美國野牛，其他的都不敢說。這 Lamar Valley 是有名的野生動物出沒地，真的看到很多群野牛。我們車上幸運地有一位從威斯康辛州來的獵人，眼力奇佳，一路指這裡那裡的，因此也看到土狼，糜鹿和鹿，只差黃石有名的灰狼不見蹤跡。躲在暖氣車上，我們連下車照相都想賴掉。我想到下午就要乘雪車上路，那時不但沒有車體暖氣保護，還要外加風寒指數，實在不知道怎麼辦。
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| A mule deer perched in the woods early morning 鹿靜坐在樹林裡 |
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| A bison walked right across our snowcoach 野牛從我們車前走過 |
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| Outside of Mammoth Hot Spring Hotel 旅館前的雪景 |
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We hit the road after short introduction of how to use the snowmobile and the hand signals of communication. Road condition wasn't ideal; sat in the back seat, I could feel my hubby driver was trying very hard to keep up with K. At one point, she signaled us to slow down and eventually stopped for the incoming group of bison. I fast removed my double gloves and got my camera ready. The leading bison was the biggest in size of the whole group, some of the followers looked timid and worried while passing us. Their big lumpy back lined up like camels, covered with snow. This majestic animal is the symbol of survival the punishing Yellowstone winter. They'd use the big head to swipe off snow and find grass underneath. We were supposed to keep a distance of 25ft from bison according to park advice, now they were in arm's length and I could hear them breathing!
下午大家去借免費的裝備，包括連身長褲，外套，雪鞋，手套，都是雙層防風，安全帽前的擋風板可以把整個臉罩住。我好不容易穿戴上所有的裝備，還沒看到雪車就已經累的要命，全身大汗了。導遊簡短的說明雪車怎麼運作，機車手勢，我們就上路了。路況不是很理想，我坐在後座，可以感覺到開車的老公很努力地想跟上導遊，但總是差一截。途中導遊手勢讓我們減速，停車，迎面來的是一群美國野牛，我趕緊拔掉兩層手套，準備好相機等牠們走到面前。帶頭的是全隊最高大的野牛，在後面跟著的小牛有些看的出來會害怕，走到我們前面是還稍微移遠一點。牠們的大隆背看來很像駱駝，上面還積雪！美國野牛是存活黃石公園嚴冬的象徵，牠們用大頭搖晃除去地上的雪，才吃得到雪下的草。園規要我們離野牛25碼遠，但此時牠們從面前走過，我還能聽到牠們的呼吸聲，和他們互看。真是不可思議。
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| The last four bison passing K's first in line snowmobile. 最後四條野牛經過導遊的第一輛雪車 |
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| After the two way traffic, they gradually reclaimed the right of the whole road 經過我們時是雙向行車，之後野牛就霸占了路權 |
The sky was gray the whole day while we were in and out of snow. We could barely kept up with K at about 20mph. She stopped again and gave us a subtle pep talk: You need to drive faster!! Not long after passing the marching bison, hubby suddenly went off road after long struggle to follow K's track. The snowmobile shot out a short distance outside the curb, eventually stopped at few feet from a small creek. Looked at the water, I was speechless. I could end up in the water in this sub-zero temperature...and die of hypothermia... K helped us pull the machine out to the road, realigned the lineup, and we somehow managed to do better from then on. That's not to say there's no other incident. Not long after our off road event, K signaled to stop again, and asked us to wait there. We turned around and saw only one snowmobile behind us, the rest of 7 were missing. It took her quite a while to come back with them. (While waiting, we saw a weasel, about the size of a small rat, all white except the dark nose, eyes, and tip of the tail, running in and out of the deep snow.) We learned next day another snowmobile went off road, the passenger was threw out, and the vehicle ended up between trees. Fortunately there was no injury or damage to the snowmobile.
那天整天天氣都不好，灰暗加小雪。我們的雪車開始時只開每小時 20 英哩，跟不上導遊。她停下車來，委婉地說要我們開快一點。不久之後，老公突然失控，往路外邊衝去，停下來時離前面的小溪只有幾呎。我看著那流動的水，在這種氣溫下，想我掉進去可能就失溫而死了。導遊幫我們把車開回大路，又把另一車拉到我們前面。重新上路之後，我們發奮圖強，居然一路緊跟不捨，就這樣到達老忠實。（不好意思說，我那天實在累極了，居然在那種氣溫下還能在後座睡過去多次，還好沒滾下車去。老公出事不久，導遊又叫停。我們回頭一看，後面應該有的八車只剩下一車，其他都沒跟上。導遊去查了半天才把他們都找回來。次日我們才聽說某車的失控更嚴重，乘客被甩出去，雪車衝到樹中間，還好沒人受傷。）
When we arrived at the Old Faithful Snow Lodge after 50 miles ride, it was at 0F. We hurried to see the last geyser eruption before dark, knowing tomorrow will be even colder.
Next morning at the breakfast, the talk among people involved only one subject, the temperature. Someone already called, it was -22F (-30C) outside on official record. The rule in the package was that the tour would not go if the temperature was below -10F. Our meeting time was delayed from 8:00 to 9:30, and on to 10am as the temperature rise steadily. Even with the bitter cold, the sky was clear and we had the Old Faithful Geyser all to ourselves. I walked out with my down parka which claimed to keep me warm to -30F. After few minutes, it felt like my arms had no cover of clothing.
開了50 英哩路，到的時候老忠實是攝氏零下十七度。 我們還趕上天黑前老忠實最後一次噴發。大家心裡都有數，明天還要更冷。次日早晨，隊友見面，只關心一件事，就是現在外面的氣溫。有人已經打電話問了，攝氏零下三十度。我們的旅遊公司規定，氣溫要高於攝氏零下二十三度，雪車才能出發。所以我們的集合時間也從早上八點延到九點半，再到十點。那天氣溫雖低，但是天氣很好，還有藍天，我們正好獨享老忠實的美景。我穿的雪衣應該可以在零下三十四度還保暖。我走到室外幾分鐘後，覺得手臂上好像沒穿衣服似的涼颼。
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| -30C outside, wonderfully warm inside. 外面零下三十度，享受溫暖的早餐 |
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| The famous Old Faithful Inn was closed for winter 著名的老忠實旅館冬天不開 |
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| Just in time for another eruption of the faithful geyser. From inside the O.F. Visitor Center.老忠實噴泉 |
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| That's what we need to put on for the day 那天要把這些全部穿上 |
Finally the temperature reached -10F, we were free to go on. People chose not to go on the snowmobile could go on snowcoach later in the afternoon. And the route was altered a bit by the team voted for a 75 miles journey, instead of 100. Hubby and I were indecisive if to go on with the snowmobile, worried that we could not catch up the speed and in turn slow the whole team down. K checked the road condition and confirmed it was plowed/pressed and weather condition would be better than yesterday. She's confident our performance yesterday could be on par with the rest of the team. Hack, consider this may be our only chance in this lifetime to do snowmobile and wintering Yellowstone, we braved the cold and decided to go on.
Even with better weather and clear sky, we passed some area with almost totally white out condition. Stop at geothermal area, Yellowstone Canyon, met a family of (endangered) Trumpeter Swan, twice stopped at warming hut to recover our body temperature, carefully passed a group of bison on the road. I had stuck two toe warmers onto my wool socks before putting on my windproof boots today, so my feet weren't as cold as yesterday. But my body felt cold just the same even with the provided jacket. Fortunately the coldness did not get worst, and I rode it back to Mammoth. Our arriving temperature was 1F.
It was a day to see the real Yellowstone with virtually nobody around, fire and ice coexisted, geysers and hot springs pop out in the freezing air. I was totally in awe, feeling surreal long after the journey ended. Funny I used to hate those people using snowmobile in the quiet National Park, now I understand there was no better way to do it. You have to be outside to feel the impact of nature.
十點以後，氣溫終於上升到攝氏零下二十三度以上，我們可以出發了。不想再騎雪車的人可以等下午的小巴雪車去 Mammoth Hotel。選擇開雪車的人投票決定把旅程改了，從100 英哩縮短成 75 英哩。老公和我還在遲疑，擔心趕不上大家到速度，拖延了大家的時間。導遊詢問了路況，證實當天已有整地雪車整過路了，天氣又比昨天好，她說對我們有信心不會脫隊。我們把心一橫，決定再騎一天的雪車。也許是這輩子最後一次了吧。冷就給他冷死了吧。
即使天氣好，還是有幾段路幾乎完全雪盲。我們一路停下來看地熱，黃石峽谷，路邊遇到天鵝一家，有三隻快成年的小天鵝。途中又在暖房停下取暖兩次，還小心超過一群走在路前面的美國野牛。昨天我腳冷，所以今天在雪靴裡，襪子外貼了暖腳趾的暖暖包，比較沒那麼冷了。但是身上還是冷，所幸沒有惡化，一路忍著直到最後。到的時候氣溫是攝氏零下十七度。
這一天雖然辛苦，但是看到了黃石最真實的一面。地熱和嚴寒共存，到處見到熱噴泉的煙在寒冷的空氣裡散出白煙。也是靠著地熱，園裡的動物才有草可吃，也才得以存活。我們彷彿到了另一個世界一般，久久沒法回到現實。我一向討厭在黃石公園騎雪車的人，覺得他們破壞了冬日的寧靜。此行之後才了解，實在也沒有其他更好的工具可用。要想了解真正的黃石公園和大自然的考驗，就必須奈著嚴寒去感覺。
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| Close to Old Faithful and the active geothermal area. 老忠實旁的地熱區 |
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| Stopped at warming hut 到取暖小屋小休一下免得被凍斃 |
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| A Trumpeter Swan family, parents with 3 juvi in gray. 天鵝一家，三隻灰色的是未成年的小鵝 |
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| A coyote on the frozen Yellowstone River 在冰封黃石河上的土狼 |
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| This guy was sawing off the snow on the roof chunk by chunk 此人在屋頂上把積雪成塊鋸開 |
回家之前還有點時間，又到Mammoth 附近再看了一兩次，不忍離去。居然見到了好幾個聽說中的“幻日” （Sundog 日狗？）, 就是垂直的彩虹。那時在車窗前看見冰雨紛紛，大概是加了陽光後的產物吧。出了五英哩外的老羅斯福總統拱門，就算是離開了黃石公園。老羅斯福總統是第一個設立國家公園的總統。前人種樹，後人乘涼。此時我對他有無限的感激。此行也讓我重溫對美國自然景觀的愛慕。這真是個美麗的國家。
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| A sundog phenomenon, like a vertical rainbow 垂直的彩虹 |
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| An elk in the early morning. |
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| Two elks practicing mating fight 兩隻鹿練習打架搶女朋友 |
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| Roosevelt Arch from inside. Solute to President Teddy Roosevelt who started the National Park. 老羅斯福總統的拱門。他劃下第一個國家公園。 |
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| Big horn sheep outside of the park 公園界外的大角羊 |
Fantastic trip i am going to do the same thing too, loved the pictures,
ReplyDeleteReally amazing
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