Sunday, June 10, 2012

Dole Out in Luang Probang 龍坡邦的化緣和尚

到龍坡邦的第一目的是看著名的和尚化緣。住進旅館之後發現化緣的路線就在門口,再走兩分鐘就到大路,也是化緣的主線。第二天一早,眼睛才睜開,我朋友就急忙到路口轉角去跪在那裡準備給和尚們食物。旁邊小販適時遞過來一盤香蕉和一小筒飯,於是開始分發食物。小隊和尚一直走來,那一點香蕉和飯好像永遠用不完,用完了旁邊總有人遞過來。做善事心裡真愉快...  等到沒和尚再來了時,旁邊的小販就開始算那些空盤子,我們才知道那是要付錢的!!!



本地人篤信佛教,每天來布施一些簡單的米飯和水果,好一點的還有甜點。他們靜靜地坐在路邊,誠心地給出一份份心意。

第二天走到大街時,路邊已跪了一整排人,肩並肩排的緊緊的。是觀光團集體來布施的。其他風聞而來的還有一堆小孩和乞丐,是來向和尚化緣(還是分贓?)的。因為布施的人實在太多,和尚的容器很快就裝滿了,有些和尚就順手給那些小孩和乞丐。這時布施的東西都進那容器,餅干,水果,米飯,甚至鈔票。旁邊的觀光客像狗仔隊一樣拼命照相,我也不例外。直到和尚和食物都沒了,觀光客也上車走了。米筒,圍巾和坐墊等人來收,這場化緣才算結束。實在沒有我想像中那麼祥和寧靜。(當然我本人也是造成問題的原因之一。)

離開的那個早晨是雨天,去機場的車上看到和尚們打傘出來化緣。冷清的路邊沒幾個人。我想那天只有本地虔誠的教徒才會出來布施吧。化緣也讓和尚體會到真實人生的冷暖。

Since I have enough dose of the Buddhist temples in several trips to Vietnam, Thailand, and Cambodia, my first priority in Luang Probang then was narrowed down to see the famous morning alms of the monks.

After checking in the guest house, we found the morning alms route is right outside. Stepping out and we get to see the monks walk by.  Two minutes away is the main street with more monks passing. Early next morning, before the brain even start functioning, my friends went over to the corner and kneed down, get ready for the alms giving. Some local lady passed along some banana and steam rice, and they were in business of giving to the steadily coming monks. Until the monks stop coming, nobody thought about how their donations was supplied...  Then the local lady started counting the number of empty trays, obviously someone got to pay for that.


This old gentleman came alms giving everyday
這位老先生每天都來
She's well stocked, with banana, steamed rice, sweet rice, and  cookies
她有備而來
Local people routinely donated to the monks
本地人篤信佛教,經常布施



Next day, I walked to the main street, surprised to find big crowd of people lined up all ready to give alms. That's the attack of the big bus tourists!  Obviously some more people learned the news too, kids and beggars also came along, asking for hand out from the monks. Of course, tourist like me went berserk seeing this feeding frenzy. (That's how we became part of the problem...)

The day we leave Luang Probang was a raining day, when the shuttle to the airport pull out of the hotel, I saw some monks holding umbrella doing the route. That day only the diehard Buddhist would be out to provide the monks.


連圍巾都是旅行社提供的
This lady has a stack of brand new bill, she prays before each give away
 這位小姐有一疊嶄新鈔票,每給一張都要念一點經才給出手

Money is mixing with steamed rice and banana, all go into the big bowl
鈔票和白飯香蕉都放在一起

Supply will be more than demand today, so the kids will get freebies
今天會收到很多食物,所以小孩也來要分

When the monk's bowl is full, something will go to the kid's basket, so he can take in more goodies
 給出去才有空間收其他東西

Taker becomes giver
收東西的人變成給東西的人

A whole army of takers and givers
 今天真熱鬧

Finished, all the tourists, and food, are gone.
觀光客一走了之
Check out the haul
檢查收到什麼東西
Redistribute the goodies. 坐地分贓
Monks bathing in Mekong River
 和尚們在湄公河畔洗澡



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