Wednesday, June 13, 2012

Turpan 吐魯番

吐魯番距離烏魯木齊兩個半小時車程,是中國著名的“火洲”。如果時間有限,先去吐峪溝,再去坎兒井,交河古城。高昌故城所剩的遺址很少,看不出什麼端倪。如果正好碰到八九月葡萄收成的時節,可去葡萄溝看一下。

還沒到吐魯番就在高速路上看到整個山坡上都是蔭房。這裡濕度很低,葡萄不在太陽下曬,而是用蔭乾的。附近只要有地,就是種葡萄。藤拉起來在太陽下提供蔭涼,連老枝都不浪費,去當柴燒。沒來以前聽說綠葡萄乾有名,問了之後才知道那是把整串綠葡萄浸過化學藥物再蔭乾的。一來加快蔭乾的速度(從六周減成三到四周),二來顏色一致成綠色。 沒浸過藥水的則有不同自然蔭乾的混和色。

Turpan is about 2.5 hours from Urumqi on bus. In case you are short on time, my take is to visit Tuyoq, Karez (the one with museum), and JiaoHe Old City, in that order. Add Grape Valley if you happened to be there during the grape harvest time.

Approaching Turpan, many grape drying housing shown along the local and highway. We are approaching the grape country! With extreme low humidity, Turpan's famous raisin dried inside the housing, not under the direct sunlight. Worth mention is, many people wants to buy the famous Turpan green raisin.  Upon talking to the locals selling dry fruit and nuts, I learned that natural way of drying grape will leave different color and shade raisins, which some people dislike. Now some of the grape was dip inside chemical before hanging out to dry, it would speed up the drying time from 6 weeks to 3 or 4 weeks, and the color will be consistently green. To avoid the raisin with chemicals, simply don't buy the green raisin.

The very famous Faming Mountain, 91km long
  火焰山,長91公里

Full of drying house for the grapes 滿山的蔭房


Grape vine provides shade relief of the head
吐魯番常見的景象,葡萄藤架提供一點蔭



A common scene in Turpan
到處都是葡萄藤


Jiao He Old City 交河故城
 
Tuyoq 吐峪溝

從吐魯番過來,經過火焰山,到吐峪溝谷地。還沒下谷地之前一個觀景點可以看到千佛洞。幾百年以前這裡是佛教區,後來被回教化了。我去時佛洞關閉,聽說發現了新洞,還在挖掘中。吐峪溝有超過一千五百年的歷史,現在的住屋和村莊看來都還保有維族原味,在現在的中國算是很難得的,值得一看。半山上的墓地是中國最神聖的回教聖地。

Coming from Turpan, passed the famous Flaming Mountain Range, before reaching Tuyoq, the Buddhist Cave can be seen from a vista point. It was closed at the time of my visit, likely because of the new found cave(s) at the left side of this picture with scaffolding. This is an authentic Uyghur town, with over 1500 years of history.  Mud house compound with living quarter, grape drying room and animal quarter. The mazar (cemetery) on the side of the hill is the holiest Muslim site in China.

This is a place with no modern building and still preserved all of the historical Uyghur character. But change is on the way.  A new parking lot is on the way to handle increasing tourists. Another thing is, always ask first before taking pictures of the local people. Many houses welcome visitors, with fee.



The whole complex including living quarter, grape drying room,  and animal  confinement.
每家包括住家,蔭房,和家畜圈區







The green dome is the Mazar (cemetery), the holy site
遠處是墓區,也是回教聖地



Karez (Subterranean Canal) 坎兒井

天山雪水被火焰山擋住,涔入地下,從漢代開始,就開始開鑿坎兒井,幾百年來陸續加多,水道錯綜,引水灌溉,勘稱中國的水利奇跡。到坎兒井景點可以有很好的解說,還可以真的下到地下,體驗幾尺之下就很蔭涼的渠道。冰涼的雪水甚至需要引到地表,放溫了才能灌溉,以免植物受傷。

Turpan is the famous "Fire State", with the high temperature in the summer frequent soars to over 40C, yet it is also an oasis, with grape vine all over the place. The reason is because of underground canal system call Karez that collected the melted ice water from Tian Shan Mountain as irrigation. This system has existed for hundreds of years, and is considered as one of the construction wonders of China.

Aerial picture (taken from museum) shows the Karez system
空中看坎兒井


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